Eyebrows. They frame your face, highlight your eyes, and can truly transform your look—whether they’re bold and defined or soft and natural. But let’s face it: getting the perfect brows can be a little tricky. Between shaping, filling, and defining, it’s easy to get lost in the sea of products and techniques.
Don’t worry, though! Whether you’re a brow newbie or a seasoned pro, I’ve seen and shaped enough to have you covered with everything you need to know. I get a lot of clients who come to me for semi-permanent brows /microblading who don’t quite know what shape they like (or what suits their face best), because they haven’t ‘mastered the art’ so to speak. So, let’s get started and Bring in the Brows!
Finding Your Perfect Brow Shape
Like I said, a LOT of clients come to me not knowing what brow ‘works’ for them and my answer will always be - start with what you already have and lets see how we can tweak it! So, before you even think about filling in your brows, it’s important to know what your natural brow shape is and how to enhance it.
Here are a few tips to help you get started:
Natural Shape is Key
The first rule of thumb is to work with the brows you’ve got. Don’t try to force a shape that doesn’t suit your face. If you have naturally arched brows, embrace that curve. If they’re more straight, go for a softer, straighter line.
Consider Your Face Shape
Your brow shape should complement your face shape. Oval faces typically look great with slightly arched brows, while round faces can benefit from higher arches to add definition and length. Square faces often look best with soft, rounded brows, and heart-shaped faces can rock a gentle arch that balances that beautifully pointed chin.
Find Your Natural Brow Arch
To find the arch point, take a pencil or makeup brush and hold it vertically against the side of your nose. This is where your brow should start. Next, look straight ahead, and the highest point of your brow should line up with the outer edge of your iris. Finally, to find where your brow should end, tilt the pencil to the outer corner of your eye - as easy as 1, 2, 3!
Shaping Your Brows: Waxing, Tweezing, and Threading
Once you know the ideal shape for your face, it’s time to clean up the area around your brows. You have several options for shaping, and each has its pros and cons:
Tweezing
Tweezing gives you the most precision when it comes to removing stray hairs. If you have a steady hand, it’s a great option for quick maintenance at home. Be sure to tweeze in the direction of hair growth to avoid irritation.
Waxing
Waxing offers a clean and long-lasting shape, but it’s important to know how to do it correctly. If you’re new to waxing, it’s best to leave it to the professionals, as it can be tricky to avoid over-waxing or causing redness - no one wants red puffy brows!
Threading
Threading is a gentle method that uses a twisted cotton thread to remove hairs. It’s perfect for creating a precise, defined shape, and it’s great for those with sensitive skin. However, it’s best done by a skilled practitioner who specialises in this method.
REMEMBER: Never shave your brows! Doing so can result in an unnatural appearance, with stubby regrowth that looks like "five o'clock shadow" on your face, making your eyebrows appear uneven and potentially causing irritation to the sensitive skin around your eyes. Put that razor D O W N!
Fill in the Gaps: How to Choose the Right Brow Products
Once your brows are shaped, it’s time to fill them in and define them. The key to natural-looking brows is to choose the right product for your brow type and desired look. Here’s a rundown of the most common options:
Pencil
Brow pencils are great for drawing individual hair-like strokes and creating a more natural, defined look. Choose a pencil that’s one or two shades lighter than your natural brow colour for a softer finish.
Powder
Brow powders offer a more soft, blended look, which is ideal for those who want a fuller brow without the harsh lines. Use a small angled brush to apply the powder in short strokes, mimicking the natural hair growth direction.
Gel
Brow gels are perfect for adding volume, setting hairs in place, and giving a more defined finish. If you have thicker or unruly brows, this is your go-to product. Clear gel can also help hold everything in place without adding color, while tinted gels add both color and hold.
Pomade
If you’re a bold, defined brow look girly, pomades are a great choice. These creamy formulas can be used to fill in sparse areas or create strong, bold brows. Be sure to use a light hand to avoid overly thick brows, and always blend out for a natural finish.
Brow Markers
These are a newer addition to the brow product world, and they’re perfect for creating fine, hair-like strokes. They’re especially helpful if you have sparse brows or are looking for more definition. Brow markers are great for building up layers and creating a realistic texture.
Perfect the Shape: Highlight and Conceal
To make your brows pop, try adding a little highlight to the brow bone. This simple step can lift and define the eyes. Use a light, shimmery eyeshadow or a brow bone highlighter pencil to accentuate the area just below your eyebrow. This draws attention to the shape of your brows and opens up the eyes.
For an even cleaner, more defined look, apply a small amount of concealer around the edges of your brows. Use a flat brush to carefully outline the top and bottom of your brows, blending out the product for a smooth finish.
Set and Go!
Finally, to keep your brows looking flawless all day long, use a brow gel or setting spray to lock everything in place. A clear brow gel will hold the hairs in place without adding colour, while a tinted gel adds both structure and volume.
For an extra-long-lasting look, try a setting spray over your entire face to keep your makeup in place throughout the day!
Know When to Seek Professional Help
While doing your brows at home can be fun and satisfying, there are times when it’s worth visiting a professional. If you’re unsure of the shape that would suit you best or want to achieve a more dramatic brow makeover, a brow specialist can help.
Microblading, for example, is a semi-permanent treatment that can give you fuller-looking brows with fine, natural strokes that mimic real hairs. It’s a great option for those with sparse or over-plucked brows. If you’re looking for something more long-term, this could definitely be worth considering.
Pro Tips for Every Brow Type
Sparse Brows: Use brow markers or a pencil to fill in sparse areas with fine strokes. Avoid filling in too much to keep the look natural.
Thick Brows: Use a light hand with your pencil or powder, focusing on defining the arch and the tail. A clear gel will help keep everything in place.
Thin Brows: Avoid over-drawing. Focus on subtly filling in and creating the illusion of more volume by concentrating on the middle of the brow and working your way outwards.
Your eyebrows are one of your most important facial features, and with the right tools and techniques, you can shape and define them to enhance your natural beauty. Whether you prefer bold and structured brows or a softer, more natural look, there’s a method and product for everyone. So, go ahead—Bring in the Brows, and let them do the talking!
Remember, practice makes perfect, and your brows are a work of art—so take your time, experiment with different shapes and products, and most importantly, have fun!